The stuff of dreams

I was attempting to park the car today on the side road at school, which involves mounting a small slope, backwards, and manoeuvring into a slither of a space between shiny BMWs, when my five-year-old told me he’d had a funny dream last night.

“Mmm, really,” I said, not really paying much attention as I inched the car gingerly into the slot. (I swear my husband has an easier time parking the A380 at Dubai International airport than most mums in Dubai have when negotiating the drop off).

As I unloaded Son2 with his various bags and his lunch box, I remembered what he’d just said and asked him to tell me more.

I’m fascinated by what kids dream about. Apparently, they even dream in the womb, and anyone who’s watched a small baby’s expression as he sleeps will know that tiny infants have vivid, simplistic dreams too.

Sweet dreams Son 2, sweet electronic dreams

Sweet dreams Son2, sweet electronic dreams

Dreams can be like children’s drawings, telling us a lot about their emotions. They’re the adventures our kids live in their sleep – and, here in Dubai, where so many of the little ones are bi- or even tri-lingual, it fascinates me what language they dream in.

“What was your dream about?” I prompted, hoping for a window into what’s on his mind.

“I dreamt about Minecraft,” Son2 replied.

“Oh.” [Not quite the insight I was hoping for.]

“Was it a bad dream?” I asked, wondering if the zombies were the modern-day equivalent of the wolves, witches and ogres of more traditional childhood dreams.

“No, I was in Minecraft,” he said proudly. “I was walking round the server, all night!” he told me, with a grin that suggested it was his best dream ever.

Hardly Hansel and Gretel, but at least he was all smiles after an entertaining sleep.

Travel post: The sultanate of Oman

We’ve reached that glorious time of the year when travel around the GCC is a blissful mix of perfect temperatures and vibrant culture. Oman, with its mountain ranges, wadis and dramatic landscapes, is hard to beat. Right on the UAE’s doorstep, the sultanate is still infused with the spirit of deepest Arabia and welcomes tourists with a warm and genuine hospitality.

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Grand scenery: Oman’s Empty Quarter lives up to its name

Gold, frankincense and mirth in old Arabia

Once a sleepy backwater of the Arab world, Oman has been transformed over recent decades by the modernising zeal of Sultan Qaboos bin Said Al Said.

When he rose to power in a palace coup in 1970, there were only 10 kilometres of paved roads, and the sultanate was suffering from rising poverty and illiteracy rates. Today, the picturesque country boasts an extensive network of highways, up-to-date facilities and a rapidly expanding service sector.

Yet, despite the modernisation drive, Oman still offers a refreshing reminder of a bygone age. A wonderfully exotic winter-sun destination, it is one of the best places in the Gulf to experience traditional Arabia, complemented by a natural beauty and a variety of climate and geography unrivalled in the region.

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Sandstone: The Sultan Qaboos Grand Mosque can host up to 20,000 worshipers

City tour
The capital Muscat is in fact three smaller towns that have grown together over time: Muscat, often referred to as the ‘walled city’ and the site of the royal palaces; Muttrah, originally a fishing village; and Ruwi, the commercial and diplomatic centre.

Swarovski crystal: The enormous chandelier in the grand mosque weighs 8.5 tonnes

Swarovski crystal: The enormous chandelier in the grand mosque weighs 8.5 tonnes

Don’t leave the capital without seeing the Royal Opera House Muscat (the first opera house in the Gulf, built from Omani desert rose stone and stucco wall coverings, and surrounded by landscaped gardens); the Sultan Qaboos Grand Mosque; the Portuguese forts in the Old Town; and the Bait Al Zubair Museum, containing a wealth of information and exhibits on the country’s culture, tradition and heritage.

Shopping in Muscat’s ancient Muttrah souk is an unmissable experience, with bargains to be had, especially sumptuous pashminas and gold jewellery. While in Muttrah, step into the fish market and stroll along the corniche, taking in the beautiful merchant houses.

Exploring the sultanate
While a city tour is fascinating in itself, and a dolphin-spotting cruise off Muscat’s coast is sure to delight the family, you’ll also want to venture further afield.

Varied: From the fort-dotted mountains of the interior to the beaches of the east coast and the monsoon-kissed greenery of Salalah, the sultanate offers an exhilarating mix of splendid scenery and cultural discovery

Varied: From the fort-dotted mountains of the interior to the pristine beaches of the east coast, the sultanate offers an exhilarating mix of untouched beauty and adventure

Head inland to Nizwa, the old capital, which is surrounded by mountains on every side, or for a classic desert encounter with towering dunes, make your way to the magnificent Wahiba Sands.

Jebel Akhdar, Oman’s Green Mountain, encompasses the great Saiq Plateau, at 2000m above sea level, along with a labyrinth of spectacular wadis and terraces. You’ll need a 4WD to explore this area, which isn’t green like the name suggests, but enjoys cooler mountain air (temperatures during December to March can drop to -5°C) and increased rainfall (including hailstones). Look out for prize pomegranates, apricots and other fruit.

Zighy Bay: Feel like you're in Thailand, without the flight

Zighy Bay: Like you’re in Thailand, without the flight

The far north of Oman, the Musandam Peninsula, is a mountainous exclave separated from the rest of the sultanate. Within easy driving reach of the UAE, the scenic strip of land treats visitors to a combination of hideaway resorts and rugged coastline. You could opt to pamper yourself at Zighy Bay (www.sixsenses.com) or go trekking and diving from the Golden Tulip Resort in Khasab (www.goldentulipkhasab.com).

Between June and October, Oman’s southernmost province of Dhofar is lightly touched by the monsoon winds that drench India each year. Life here is more traditional, and the coastline bordering the regional capital, Salalah, was once the site of the Frankincense Trail, considered in ancient times to be southern Arabia’s most important commercial route.

Monsoon-kissed: A Frankincense forest during the summer khareef rains

Monsoon-kissed: A Frankincense forest during the summer khareef rains

The beachside Hilton Salalah Resort is set in a wonderful location, or try the Salalah Marriott Resort at Mirbat. You can travel inland to see the trees from which the ancient perfume is harvested, and make sure you don’t miss the markets, or the 3,000-year-old lost city of Ubar, at one time the frankincense export capital of the world.

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Dubai wins the World Expo

SUBTITLE: And the kids are off school, again!

So the city was successful in its bid to host the Expo 2020, making Dubai the toast of Paris (where voting was held on Wednesday night). And, it was really quite amazing how celebratory it all felt, especially given the fact that half the people out partying will probably have moved away long before 2020.

(And I do wonder how many actually knew what the Expo is – but that’s the Expo factor for you, and anything that causes a nation to erupt in joy is a good thing in my books.)

It was just before 8pm when the Expo spirit took hold of me. As I’ve mentioned before, we’ve been writing about it at work for months so I did have much more than a passing interest. But, all of a sudden, as the results of the second round of voting came in – and Dubai emerged as the clear leader – a plan started taking shape in my mind.

“Let’s go to the Burj,” I blurted out to DH. “C’mon, if we go now, we can do it.” He looked at me dubiously, as though I was totally bonkers. Not only would there be thousands of people, but the traffic was likely to be horrendous.

“I’ll just get ready,” I added.

“No,” he countered. “If you really want to do this, we have to go right now.”

With the radio on in the car, we made our way towards the Burj Khalifa, the centerpiece of the planned fireworks display. “What if we don’t win?” we wondered. “They’ll just put the fireworks away until New Year,” I shrugged.

But, to be honest, by now, it was in the bag and as the announcement neared, I realised there was no way we’d get to the Burj in time. We’d be in the Dubai Mall car park and miss everything, so I had my second bright idea of the night – to pull off the side of the road, onto the sand, and watch from there.

The view was great – breathtaking even. And as the spectacular fireworks cascaded up and down the Burj, and bursts of colour exploded into the starry sky, I did feel proud – for a few moments, until I realised dozens of other cars were careering off Al Khail road with the same idea as us, and I was standing in a rather precarious position, like a deer caught in the headlights and amid much celebratory beeping of horns.

But, still, I’ll always remember where I was when the Expo 2020 win was announced.

Happy Thanksgiving! Happy Expo Win! And Happy UAE National Day next week. There's a lot to celebrate. I did, however, fail to see the link between the Expo bid and education. The schools were closed, thanks to the jubilant mood of the powers -that-be, and with National Day coming up, the kids have two more days off after the weekend - lucky things!

Happy Thanksgiving! Happy Expo Win! And Happy UAE National Day next week. There’s a lot to celebrate. I did, however, fail to see the link between the Expo bid and education. The schools were closed, thanks to the jubilant mood of the powers-that-be, and with National Day coming up, the kids have two more days off after the weekend – lucky things!

Silent Sunday: Dubai quirks

Christmas is one of my favourite times of the year in Dubai, due to the cooler weather and laid-back atmosphere. But, there’s no doubt, it can be a funny thing too. Where else would a festive family fair, with a highly coveted Santa’s grotto for the children, be postponed until the end of January?

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Another quirk I’ve noticed about living in Dubai is that they don’t make waterproof buildings. I guess it rains so infrequently, why bother? But, every now and then, this oversight results in torrents of water gushing down walls and across floors indoors. Check out the leaks that sprung at the new airport during a bout of rain last week – honestly, you have to watch this to believe it!

Spit-mageddon

Since it rains so infrequently in Dubai, it feels fitting that the events of today’s spit-mageddon are recorded on the blog. Here goes:

6.15am: Wake with an uneasy feeling. There’s a strange darkness creeping round the curtains; I peer out the window and see ominous-looking clouds.

8.15am: The children safely at school, I continue on to work. Suddenly, the sky is split in half by a bolt of lightening. Rain drops start falling.

8.15-8.18am: Spend several minutes trying to locate the windscreen wipers on the car.

9.30am: While the sky is still a pale-grey colour, and the sea looks glassy, the rain appears to have stopped.

10am: Rumours surface that the KHDA, the government body that oversees education, thinks there’s a cyclone coming, and is shutting down all schools, immediately.

10.30am: Rumours confirmed. Schools send text messages to all parents, telling us to pick up our children as soon as possible, by 11.30am at the latest in the case of Son1.

10.30-11am: The evacuation sends all the parents in the office into overdrive. Frantic phone calls are made to car pool buddies and housekeepers. “The children are coming home!

11.10am: Mothers all over the UAE mobilise their resources and cancel their afternoon engagements. “I was planning on an 11am Ashtanga yoga class, followed by a gellish manicure and a triple berry smoothie at the Lime Tree Cafe,” I imagine inconvenienced yummy-mummies saying. “And the nanny insists on resting in the afternoon.”

11.15am: Manage to get Son1 and Son2 home from different schools, by hook or by crook, without leaving my desk.

11.20am: Yet, despite the dire weather warnings, the sky looks like this:

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Thanks for the photo B! Brightening up outside.

2pm: Texting DH who’s just landed in Melbourne, and three hours after the event, has received the SMS messages from school. “What’s happening?” he asks. “I can’t see anything like a cyclone on the wx map!”

3pm: Still no cyclone. Not even a downpour.

4pm: Will it, won’t it? The rain watch continues.

Rain watch at our office. Just *joking*. We were actually watching the Red Arrows aerobatic team performing loops and rolls above the Burj al-Arab

Raindrop-spotting at our office. Just *joking*. We were actually watching the Red Arrows aerobatic team performing loops and rolls above the Burj al-Arab

6pm: Drive home and hear all about how exciting it was when school closed.

Look at all this rain! Good job the kids were safe at home

Look at all this rain! Good job the kids were safe at home

The verb hunt

A new policy I’m trying to adhere to is to leave work on time. Often harder than it sounds, the reason for this is two-fold: the traffic in Dubai is abysmal (again), and my children have seemingly endless homework that needs supervising.

Tonight, I came through the door and called out my usual ‘hellos’. Son2 leapt up from his chair at the kitchen table and ran at me like a torpedo, while Son1 peered at me from behind the iPad, shouted hello loudly, then went back to his game like a techno-crackhead.

“Right,” I said brightly. “Who’s got homework?” I knew they both had work to do; and they both knew I knew. There was silence. Son1 sank deeper into the sofa, and Son2 actually went back to the kitchen table to eat vegetables.

“It’s verbs tonight, isn’t it?” I said, rubbing my hands with glee.

Yes, glee!

You might be surprised to hear that, perhaps oddly for someone who writes a blog, works on a magazine and LOVES writing, I don’t actually know one end of a sentence from the other. A product of the 70s, I learned (learnt?) to read and write at a time when grammar was totally out of fashion.

Back then, British schools were going through a period in which the teaching of grammar was thought to be stifling to creativity (or maybe I spent my childhood staring out the window? It’s possible).

1374281_658095677542759_1305527163_nInstead, I sort of feel my way through a piece of writing – in the same way you’d produce a watercolour painting, I can put together the bare bones of an article, flesh it out and add some detail. A read-through at the end, along with a flurry of fairly brutal editing, polishes it off, and, voila, I’m done.

But ask me about sentence construction, the future perfect or irregular verbs and I’m at a bit of a loss really. If something is wrong, it literally jumps off the page at me – and I can usually fix it (which is what I do in my job as a sub editor), but I couldn’t give you a technical explanation.

Which is why I’m loving the fact that my older son is actually starting to learn all this stuff at school – not only can I refresh my own knowledge, but I can honestly say that witnessing him starting to grasp grammar is a joy.

Until I take it a bit too far. “A verb hunt. Great!” I enthused. “Let’s go through my magazines,” I suggested, and reached for a copy of the business title I work on.

“Now then, tell me, where is the verb in this headline?” I asked him.

Son 1 looked at the page, blankly. He tried, bless him. But it was a story on Iraq, aimed at oil executives, not seven year olds.

“Mum,” he said, quietly. “I really want to do the other homework. The 3D model of a landform.”

They’re going to the planetarium tomorrow, as part of their unit of inquiry on how the Earth works, and he’s so excited.

“Can we make an iceberg, like in the Titanic?” he pleaded.

Grammar was never going to compete, was it?

The division of labour

I’m enjoying a few days off from the office this week, and as well as catching up on a million things, I’m trying to squeeze a couple of friends in – and I do mean squeeze, quite literally.

A dear buddy I caught up with this morning has recently started a new job, which, as we all know, is a time-consuming beast. With both of us attempting to juggle work and kids, a meet-up was proving elusive – until, all of a sudden, a window of opportunity arose.

“I can do Tuesday morning, after drop-off,” she texted.

“But only until 9.”

“That’s great,” I replied. “We’ll talk fast.”

Remember how, pre-kids, meeting friends involved leisurely lunches and shopping bags? Now we're all caught up by 9am!

Remember how, pre-kids, meeting friends involved leisurely lunches and shopping bags? Now we’re all caught up and on our way by 9am!

And talk fast we did, over eggs benedict and tea, in a frilly restaurant that resembles the inside of a doll’s house, near school.

This lovely friend has children who are a few years older than my own and is a font of information about the myriad issues that arise. I was picking her brains about homework – when will they do it without me breathing down their necks? How much per night? When, oh when, does it get easier?

And why does the homework buck seem to stop squarely on the woman’s shoulders?

“It’s like a government,” she suggested. “I’m the Ministry of Education and the Department of Health. He’s the Ministry of Transport.”

It made perfect sense, put like that.

“He’s also the Chancellor of the Exchequer,” she continued.

And, when you think about it, there’s more: Food Standards Agency (me); Revenues and Customs (him); Archives Department (me); Department for Environment (me); Treasury (him); Ministry of Justice (shared, though DH is better at breaking up the boys’ fights than me); General Secretariat (me); Ministry of Social Affairs (me); Foreign Office (him); Ministry of Labour (depends what kind of labour you’re talking about). I could go on.

But as for the homework, we concurred – it’s, unfortunately, one of those pink jobs – which, given that my worker bees aren’t exactly cooperative, merits a big sigh.

The morning after (the night before)

If there’s a time when our living room resembles a scene from the movie The Hangover, it’s the Friday morning after Halloween.

I came downstairs today to find sweet wrappers strewn around the lounge, several containing half-eaten, sticky candies. Discarded costumes were still in the exact spot they’d been peeled off, and the children, who’d got up far too early considering it was such a late night, were sprawled on the sofa, pale-faced with tiredness and nursing sugar hangovers. If a chicken had wandered by, and pecked at the leftover sweets, I honestly wouldn’t have been too surprised.

Closer inspection revealed that the disembodied neck from Son 1’s headless horseman outfit had rolled across the floor, coming to rest by the TV. I spotted a gloved hand from Son 2’s zombie costume nearby and there was a devil’s fork propped against the bookshelf.

“So everyone had a good night then?” I asked, looking at my bleary-eyed, 7YO Halloweenie, who was holding his head in his hands. (A cold was compounding the sugar crash).

There was a resounding yes – and, I have to say, I did feel quite pleased that our preparations (which, let’s face it, take all month) had paid off.

I love that, on Halloween, our compound descends into collective trick-or-treatery and becomes a distant satellite suburb of the US, with spooky decorations galore. Last night, our wonderful American neighbours treated us to a pre-Halloween warm-up party; then the kids trooped round the streets in costume – gathering in porches lit by the glow of jack-o-lanterns to collect sweets.

Some villas had taken a theatrical approach, with haunted-house music and torches, and there was a witch strung high above G street, flapping gently in the moonlight.

It was a balmy evening, almost a little too hot to be wearing layers of cheap polyester, and our community was out in force – on foot and for a lucky few, drive-by style, in a six-foot trailer pulled by a quad bike.

After the commotion died down, I escaped to a party up the road, leaving DH to get the children to bed, and bringing Halloween to a wickedly fun end.

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The costumes were acquired by DH on a trip to New York earlier in October

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The pumpkin was bought at the fruit n veg market (12dhs, as opposed to the fortune charged by Spinney’s) and the innards were turned into this dish – my first ever pumpkin pie! We carved a watermelon too, which glowed luminous red

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Just some more e-numbers – spider cakes for the children

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But for some, Halloween is as easy as writing a (polite) note and posting it on the door (although they probably had to hide too)

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When customer service thinks for you

So DH and I are at our local retail centre having a breakfast date when my phone rings. It’s the receptionist at a dental clinic in Healthcare City.

“You have appointment,” she says in a sing-song voice. “Wednesda-ay, 9.30 in the morn-ing.”

“That’s right,” I reply. “You phoned yesterday to confirm,” I add, a little confused because it was a fait accompli as far as I was concerned. I wonder if she’s about to tell me the slot’s cancelled and I need to reschedule.

There’s a pause. “Yes, Ma’am,” she says. “I’ll phone you again on Tuesday to remind you.”

“You could just text me if you like,” I suggest. “I’ve written it down.”

I’d have thought nothing more of it, but 10 minutes later, we encounter another circular conversation that suggests we left our brains at passport control.

DH and I go into the supermarket to buy our helper Catherine some lunch from the deli section. They sell Filipino food and we often bring it home for her.

"Sir, no. You want pizza, yes!"

“Sir, you prefer pizza, yes!”

“What’s that?” DH asks, pointing at a vegetable dish.

“You won’t like,” says the man behind the counter, shaking his head.

DH tries again. “But can you tell me what it is?”

“It’s Filipino food.”

“Could I have some please?” attempts DH.

“You no like,” he repeats, adamant.

“If you want, you must try first,” he then adds, helpfully. So DH does the taste test and smiles in approval. “Mmmm, yum.”

Still a little unconvinced, the man reluctantly spoons some of the dish into a small pot – filling it only half full.

We make it to the cash register, and I wonder if receptionists and deli counter staff are actually on a mission to save us from ourselves. You never know – customer service in Dubai can be a strange thing.

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Doggy daycare

Son 1 attended a 007, spy-themed party at the Ranches this weekend and as I drove through the rabbit warren of streets lined with beautiful identikit villas to collect him, it occurred to me that I might not know any of the other parents.

He’s on a school bus, so I have much less contact with his school than my other son’s (higher-maintenance) school, which I visit every day for the drop-off. Plus, the way they do a shake, rattle and roll each year with the six classes in each grade means both the pupils and parents get a fresh start each September.

Anyway, the party was still going on, so the parents huddled in the kitchen while a pair of energetic teenagers led the games outside. I struck up a conversation with another British mum, as the kids hurled water bombs at each other, and we exchanged details about our child’s name, class, etc.

(The drawback with mixing up the classes is I spend ages wracking my not-so-well-oiled brain, trying to work out if the mum I’m talking to is the same person I sat giggling with in a coffee shop three years ago, is the class mum – who deserves deep respect, in my opinion, and I probably owe money to – or is indeed a newcomer.)

The British lady and I didn’t talk about our children for long, because the conversation quickly moved on to her dogs. Specifically, the doggy daycare they were being treated to that day. Yes, treated to.

“Do you want to see some photos of my dogs?” she asked, rhetorically, then reached for her phone, pulled up Facebook and clicked on a post from the doggy daycare.

“There they are,” she said proudly. “Awww, look what they’re doing!

"The masseuse is here, Sir"

“The masseuse is here, Sir”

I peered at her phone. Her dogs, indeed very cute (and known as Little and Large, due to one being big and the other handbag-sized), were pictured frolicking around a sizeable grassy, landscaped yard, with tunnels and other playthings laid out for them.

“That’s their swimming pool,” she said, enlarging a photo of a sparkling blue pool, big enough to hold at least 10 children.

“Swimming pool?” I responded, my eyes widening, “For the dogs?

“Yes, and that’s where they rest. It’s great – they go every Saturday.” [“Means we can actually do something on Saturdays,” her husband interjected.] “In fact, we must dash – it’s doggy pick-up time at 6.”

She showed me one last photo of her cat [“Do they do cat daycare, too?” I ventured, my mind still processing this whole concept and spinning with possibilities for our moggy.] Then they called their daughter over to leave.

I’m not really a dog person, but later that evening, I found myself Googling it, intrigued by the idea of a pet daycare with a pool, that structures the day to include a dog-nap, has a webcam trained on the playarea, and posts updates on Facebook to allow ‘parents’ to see what their pampered pets are up to.

Turns out, that’s not the half of it. Dogs can board there, and even the standard suites are furnished with a sofa bed and plasma TV; the Urban Suite has a webcam inside; and the Junior Royal Suite offers extras such as a sheepskin rug, bonus cuddles, caviar in the feeding bowls and champagne through a hose (ok, I made the last two up!).

There’s a pet Limo service, a personal butler and a fully-equipped indoor gym with ‘Fit Fur Life’ doggy treadmills – where, I’m guessing, the doggy bootcamp for overweight pooches takes place.

You won’t be surprised to learn that classical music is piped into the communal areas and that eye-soothing views of an indoor oasis with fabulous fountains are advertised.

Seriously, I’ve been in Dubai for five years now and I thought I’d seen it all. But a 7-star pet resort for animals who need a luxury break from their day-to-day routine. That takes the biscuit, surely!

(And, yes, there is a cattery – I checked!)

Find out more about Urban Tails (in the Green Community) at www.urbantailsdubai.com