So how was your weekend?

It’s something you don’t expect to hear when you ask someone about their weekend. But with my son attending a school where at least 60 per cent of the students come from airline families (who get super cheap tickets), I’ve learned not to bat an eyelid when mothers tell me about what they’ve been up to.

“Did you have a good weekend?” I asked a fellow mum.

“Yes … Actually we went to Johannesburg.”

Anyone else want to tell me about their Christmas in Lapland?

Anyone else want to tell me about their Christmas in Lapland?

“Really, just for the weekend?” I have to admit I was impressed – the South African city is a good 8 hours’ flying time from here, and that doesn’t include all the getting to and from the airport shenanigans.

“We had 24 hours there. Yesterday morning, we were in the lion park! The children loved it, especially as they’re doing Africa in class at the moment.”

“An amazing field trip!” I agreed. I’d just been looking at all the photos of big animals and African plains on the classroom wall.

“It was really last minute – my husband was flying there, and I woke up and thought ‘Why aren’t we going too?’ Half an hour later, we were on our way to the airport.”

“It’s not like me at all,” she added. “I usually plan everything far in advance.”

“Well good for you,” I said, as we were spat out the school gates – and I really meant it.

Sometimes you just have to grab life by the horns.

On hanging up the ice skates (for good)

It’s a little known fact that I’d love to be an ice dancer. Years ago, I wanted nothing more than to be Jayne Torvill – the trouble was, I was a terrible ice skater.

Then, we moved to Minnesota – which, for at least four months of the year, turned into a magical, winter wonderland. Fresh, fluffy snow would burst through the clouds, and the lakes would freeze so deeply that you could even drive cars on them. The sky was nearly always sailor blue, and when a blizzard started, the snowflakes would lightly touch your face, attaching to your lashes and tickling your nose. (Sigh, I still miss it – or am I forgetting shovelling my way out of a six-foot snowdrift?)

I finally learnt to skate in Minnesota. I had lessons at our local ice rink, and practised outdoors whenever I could – even on a huge frozen puddle outside our home. I loved it, but before you start thinking I was any good, I should add that, despite learning to swizzle and being able to get round the ponds and canals at Centennial Lakes Park, I wasn’t a natural, by any means. Then I got pregnant, and that was pretty much it.

Fast forward nearly 10 years, and I find myself looking at my ice skates longingly. “Let’s go skating at the Dubai Mall,” I tell my family, admiring the gleaming silver blades on my still new-looking, lace-up, white skates. (“Let’s take gloves,” I add, imagining the serrated toe pick going over someone’s little fingers.)

My boots, my dream. Lovely, but eye-wateringly painful.

My boots, my dream. Lovely, but eye-wateringly painful.

So, on Friday morning, we head to Dubai’s Olympic-size arena, before the mall gets too busy and the rink becomes like Sheikh Zayed Road on ice. We get the children booted up, lug two huge Penguin Pals onto the ice (utterly wonderful, sturdy inventions that kids can cling onto to learn to skate), and we’re off …

Except it wasn’t as easy as that (what was I thinking?). It felt nerve-wracking, and slippy; my feet skidded unsteadily in different directions, and just balancing was tricky. While the boys shuffled off with their penguins, DH took my hand and guided me round (he’s pretty good, having grown up in Kuwait, where he ice skated during the hot summers). Until finally I got my confidence back, and could glide – cautiously – by myself.

A few laps later, and I realised I couldn’t feel my feet. Not because of the cold (the rink felt pretty warm). But because they’d started tingling. My boots, which fit perfectly well a decade ago, were clearly too tight, and as pins and needles started spreading from my toes to my heels, I had to concede (sniff) that it was time to hang up my skates. (Darn it! How is it that 10 years and two children can not only make your hips, waist and tummy expand, but also cause your feet to get bigger?)

I’ll be back though – the hired boots felt much better, and while I’ll never be able to spin or jump like Jayne Torvill, I’m actually really pleased I was able to stay upright. One-two-three-gliiiiide.

Silent Sunday: Circles in the Sky

Following more than £200bn of orders over the past five days, the Farnborough Air Show opened its doors to the public this weekend, and what an experience it was. (I’m not usually one to shout about my birthday, but yesterday was the day, and my treat was the air show!) Can you guess who painted this heart in the sky?

photo-355

My absolute favourite aerobatic display team – the Red Arrows…

photo-353

I probably shouldn’t forget to mention the airplane my DH flies, too…

photo-358

Which took off to cheers from the crowd, and proceeded to execute a seemingly impossible display of tight turns relatively close to the ground.

photo-356

Defying the weatherman’s dire prediction of storms, the show also featured a helicopter that dazzled onlookers with its back flips (no joke!), wing walkers, a WWI mock dogfight and this Harrier Jump Jet, which hovered in the air and took a bow…

photo-357

Awesome day!

Travel post: Muscat-eers for Easter

That's one big sandcastle!

That’s one big sandcastle!

It’s a trip that would be rude not to do from Dubai. Oman is right on our doorstep – you don’t even have to fly there. Except we did, thinking we’d save time (39-minute flight! It took far longer to board and taxi).

The first thing you notice on arrival is there’s none of the bling found in Dubai. Nor is it as organised. Passengers are herded to the long and winding queue for visas, and maybe because it was Friday, things moved slowly.

This could also be because, in Oman, people don’t rush like they do in Dubai. The pace of life is altogether more sedate – even the driving, which is (slightly) less aggressive, probably because there’s far less traffic on the roads.

We picked up our hire car and discovered that most parts of the city are easy to reach. Not far from the airport, you sail past the magnificent, sandstone Sultan Qaboos Grand Mosque – big enough to house up to 20,000 worshippers and famous for the enormous 8.5-tonne chandelier hanging inside.

xxxx

The grand mosque also contains the world’s second-largest hand-woven carpet

Near our hotel, we came across another splendid building – the first opera house in the Gulf. Its opening in 2011 put the capital firmly on the map. Oman’s ruler Sultan Qaboos is passionate about classical music and his desire to develop this art form in the sultanate culminated in a classic Islamic-style Royal Opera House, made from Omani desert rose stone and stucco wall coverings, and surrounded by landscaped gardens.

Topped with minarets, Muttrah stretches along an attractive corniche

Topped with minarets, Muttrah stretches along an attractive corniche


Muscat itself is actually three smaller towns that have grown together over time: Muscat, the ‘walled city’ and site of the royal palaces; Muttrah, originally a fishing village; and Ruwi, the commercial and diplomatic centre. On our first evening, we drove into Muttrah as the sun set and the evening prayers got underway. At the old port, we saw the Sultan’s rather impressive super-yacht docked at sea, and admired the rows of traditional white homes with intricately carved balconies, stained glass art and elegant eaves.

xxxxx

Tempting scents waft through the souk


Opposite the port is the ancient – and unmissable – Muttrah souk, where there are bargains to be had, especially sumptuous pashminas, gold jewellery, frankincense, spices and perfumes. “This is just like the Madinat – but real,” I found myself saying to DH, as hawkers touted their wares and I gazed at the stalls set up beneath gorgeous Islamic architecture.

The next day, we’d booked a speedboat trip to spot dolphins (and the occasional whale). This spectacle offers the opportunity to not only see some of the leaping pods of dolphins that live in the Gulf of Oman, but also to view the rugged coastline from the sea. For our boys, witnessing lively, grey bottlenose dolphins in flight was the highlight of our visit, while in my books, meandering along the coast taking in the craggy scenery was equally unforgettable.

xxxxx

Oman boasts more than 2,000 kilometres of coastline

No trip to Oman is complete without visiting a wadi – a (dried-up) riverbed and lush, green oasis of palm trees, grasses and flowering shrubs – so to round our day off we drove out to a wadi not far from Muscat, where we found at least a dozen car owners washing their vehicles with the trickle of clear, cool water.

I thoroughly recommend Oman for an authentic getaway. With its mountain ranges, dramatic landscapes, warm hospitality and old-world appeal, it’s a refreshing reminder of a bygone age and one of the best places in the Gulf to experience traditional Arabia.

xxxx

The fort-dotted, mountainous interior

xxx

Paddling in the wadi

The ‘bear’-faced selfie

It was the moment Son2 had been waiting for since the beginning of the school year: The day he got to take Bernie, the class bear, home.

Bernie arrived at our house in a bag, with his scrapbook – a well-leafed diary documenting his time spent with the families in Son2’s class. The pages were filled with photos, hand-written stories, speech bubbles, decorative stamps, evidence of baking extravaganzas and even a bear-class boarding pass.

You wouldn’t believe how creative it gets.

Son2 and I browsed the book together. ‘Oh look, there’s Bernie parachuting into someone’s garden, ” I exclaimed, my wide-open eyes settling on a photo of the bear floating into the family’s backyard underneath a make-shift canopy. “And here he is ON SKIS, in France!”

xxxx

Silently seeking attention

It got even better: Blow me down, but Bernie spent Christmas in Lapland. There were snaps of him playing in the snow, snuggled up in the log cabin and listening to music in his airplane seat. “Let’s take Bernie on a husky safari, then tonight, if we’re really lucky, we might get a shot of him gazing at the Aurora Borealis rolling across the sky,” I could almost hear the enthused parents telling their bemused children.

Our time with Bernie had much more of a homey feel. In the knowledge that on top of all the usual weekend chores, I had to find amusing things to do with a bear, I set up numerous photo opportunities – of Bernie reading books, cosy in his pyjamas, sitting on the kitchen table eating noodles and using his paws to scale the bunk bed ladder. In an inspired moment, he posed for a #nomakeupselfie.

I even remembered to take Bernie with us when we went to football, and in the car, took care to buckle him up in the back.

Son2 looked at me suspiciously as I fiddled around trying to secure the seat belt. It was a look that suggested he thought I’d lost my mind. “Mum, he’s just a toy, you know!” my 5YO reminded me, with a roll of his eyes and a casual glance in Bernie’s direction.

A sighting of Sheikh Mo

Visitors, I’ve decided, are like buses – it’s been a while since any of my friends have visited us here in Dubai, then, this weekend, five came along at once.

Which meant pulling out the stops to show them a good time – while a sandstorm swept through the region, complete with rain, lightning and gusting wind.

On Friday night, with the weather looking decidedly dodgy, I ordinarily would have stayed on the sofa (no babysitter, early start, you know how it goes), but since my visitors didn’t come to Dubai to watch TV, we braved the elements and went on a desert safari.

Yes, during all that rain.

xxxx

Good times in the desert

I was surprised. There were at least 30 cars, hurtling over the sand dunes in a rollercoaster fashion, and while the sunset was hidden by dusky clouds, the desert landscape still managed to enchant.

After the excitement of dune bashing, the Bedouin camp offered a chance to relax, sit back, and enjoy Arabic food, a bellydancer who shimmied like a flame and apple-spiced shisha.

Even with the lashing rain, which came through in waves – and meant the camels were led away to shelter – and despite the travel sickness endured by Visitor 1, it was a great night, filled with friends, a falcon display, Henna tattoos and wine.

On a roll, my visitors and I (in various combinations) also managed to tick the following boxes:

– Cocktails at The Address hotel in Dubai Marina (not too shabby, and the most amazing view from their room)

– A boat ride around the marina and out into the Gulf

– Handbag shopping at Karama

– Lunch at Jumeriah Beach Residence, followed by sniffing the sea air and the most scrumptious frozen yogurt

– The fountains at Dubai Mall (I love these choreographed water displays at the foot of the towering Burj Khalifa – set to music, the high-pressure jets roll and sway in all directions, to make the water, literally, dance)

– Souk al-Bahar to buy stuffed camels

– The Els Club for more drinks

– The Atlantis hotel so they could say they’d done The Palm

There’s really nothing quite like having visitors in town to make you see Dubai through the eyes of a tourist. And to top it all, we spotted Dubai’s ruler Sheikh Mohammed bin Rashid al-Maktoum (Sheikh Mo, as he’s affectionately called), strolling around JBR. That, I couldn’t have planned any better.

Holiday planning when you’re an airline family

Me to DH: “So what do you think? I know the kids have school, but we could just do a long weekend, couldn’t we?”

DH gives it some thought. With two schools that follow completely different calendars and a husband who usually ends up working over Eid, Christmas, Easter, national holidays, etc, our vacation days only ever match during a blue moon.

Me: “Let’s just check the system. Maybe there’ll be space to Sri Lanka.”

To my delight, there is – the chances of making it to Colombo and back on standby in four days’ time are good!

Our attention turns to accommodation (and telling the schools). We find out it must be peak season as all the beach hotels in Negombo are booked. “Don’t worry, we’ll find somewhere,” says DH, sensing my unease (I’m the kind of person who can’t sleep until a booking is confirmed).

A day later, DH finds a hotel, nearby – and by nearby, I mean, in the Maldives.

DH: “The good news is the flights to the Maldives are open. The bad news is the hotel isn’t available for all the nights we need. So, we could take the 3am flight which has seats …”

3am! My mind does a cartwheel, and bellyflops. The thought of dragging the children out of bed, through airports and on a night flight, followed by one and half days on the beach to recover, doesn’t bode well and I wimp out.

Me: “I think we should stick with Sri Lanka. You know, show them something completely different. Culture, elephants, snakes. Temples, definitely temples.”

DH: “You sure? The Maldives are paradise. And there’s a kids’ club.”

How tempting does that island look? Maldives, I'll be back!

How tempting does that tropical island look? Maldives, I’ll be back!

Finally, with two days to go, we make a booking in a hotel in Colombo! Work keeps me busy, and the packing gets done late at night. It’s not all that far from Dubai (and the flight is at a good time).

Except that flight suddenly fills up with fare-paying passengers who’ve come out of the woodwork.

“There’s another flight with space, but it’s not direct,” says DH, the day before leaving. “It’ll take seven hours. Via the Maldives.”

And, I’ll tell you this, if anything is going to make you second-guess your decision, it’s descending over the best beaches in the world – and peering out the airplane window at the whiter-than-white sand, the lush greenery and the luminous cyan-blue water surrounding the Indian Ocean islands.

Then touching down to land, watching at least three-quarters of the passengers disembark, and saying to DH as we awaited the next leg of our journey:

“It looks A.M.A.Z.I.N.G! Can I change my mind? Can we get off here?”

“No,” he confirmed, with a wry smile. “We’ll be on our way in an hour. You wanted temples, remember?”

So who is the noisy man?

I read somewhere that you know you’re a long-term desert dwelling expat when you stop explaining to people that the weekend here is Friday and Saturday.

In fact, it used to be Thursday and Friday, changing in 2006 after it was deemed that having a weekend halfway into the rest of the world’s working week wasn’t productive.*

Every Friday at noon, Muslims go to the mosque for Friday prayers and the city erupts with noise as the mosques broadcast their sermons on loud speakers. If you’re parked in the vicinity, you’re highly likely to get blocked in as people flock to pray, leaving their cars in every available space, on the pavement, and on the sand.

The call to prayer (azaan) is heard five times every day (seven days a week) and I really enjoy hearing it when we’re out and about. It’s such a part of life in Dubai and always reminds me where we are.

The children here, for whom going back to school on Sunday is perfectly normal, can even be trained to come home when they hear the call to prayer.

“I have to go when I hear the noisy man,” one of BB’s friends told me once during a playdate at our previous villa, located in a compound right opposite a mosque.

“The noisy man?” I enquired. “Ah, of course!” When you live so close to a mosque, it is pretty loud – and the first call to prayer is at sunrise!

But, as I said, I love listening to the echoing song of the iman (and quickly learnt to sleep through the dawn call). You can also hear it in shopping malls, where even if you don’t practice Islam, it’s a signal to think beyond the shopping.

Have a quick listen below!

*As an aside, in several other parts of the Middle East (Saudi Arabia, Oman and Yemen), the weekend is still Thurs-Fri.

Silent Sunday: Boys’ toys

Yes, that's snow, not sand - and that is my 6yo about to go skidding up a mountain on a snowmobile in Lebanon this weekend! The antithesis of many people's image of the Middle East, laid-back Lebanon is mostly mountainous with ski resorts to boot

Middle East meets Miami

It’s warming up in the desert (highs of 39°c / 102°F on Thursday and it’s only March!).

While this was (hopefully) just a blip, a reality of living in the United Arab Emirates is while other parts of the world are celebrating the arrival of spring daffodils (like these) and life bursting forth, in a few short months we’ll witness life being scorched.

But the good news is the rising temps mean it’s beach season – and I’ve been here long enough now to know we need to make the most of Dubai’s beautiful seaside in Spring, before it gets too hot to go to the beach in July and August (lobster is not a good look, but is what you get if you brave the burning-hot sand and soup-like ocean during the hottest part of the year).

This weekend, I discovered a beach we’d never been to before – and decided I loved it so much, I’d like to move there.

Lapped by the aquamarine waters of the Arabian Gulf, Sunset Mall beach is flanked by gorgeous Miami-style condos, with views of Dubai Offshore Sailing Club boats as well as ducking-and-diving kite surfers.

If you tire of this driveable and surprisingly shrubby beach, you can walk to the adjacent glass-walled Sunset Mall to browse the newly opened high-end fashion boutiques inside.

Beach and shopping: now there’s something for everyone!

With fish, kite surfers and sail boats, there's lots of entertainment on Sunset Mall beach