Dubai gets front row seats for the lunar eclipse

Having read in the media that Dubai would be the best place in the world to catch tonight’s lunar eclipse, I’m staying up late to watch the celestial show.

And what a performance!

The moon turned an eerie shade of red as the Earth passed between it and the sun. Then the strange, football-like disc was swallowed by the shadow until the moon was completely blotted out. Erased from the inky-black sky as though it no longer existed.

What if it doesn’t come back, I wondered? And was the bright dot I could see just below the eclipse Mars? Could it even be the start of the apocalypse? I could really see why the sight of the blood moon has inspired awe and fear throughout history, blamed on this god or that by those who had no understanding of what causes eclipses.

I’m happy to report that the moon is now winning, reappearing slowly and surely – first a curved, pencil line of white light, then a dazzling crescent that grew bigger each time I glanced up. Now a half moon, It’s coming back more brilliant than before, whiter and sharper than ever, like it disappeared into the wash to be laundered with bleach.

While I’d love to stay up and watch it morph into a proud, full moon again, it really is time I went to bed. Night all! I’ll leave you with some very amateur photos – and a pic nabbed from Reuters.

Going…going…gone

Dubai has everything else. Why not a sail-thru burger stand?

There’s been many a times that I’ve stood at the railings of Dubai Marina and admired my dreamboat. If you’ve spent any time cruising around the turquoise water of The Gulf, you’ll know exactly what kind of boat I mean: think sleek, futuristic vessels with giant sun decks, or a 200-foot superyacht with several storeys, a cinema and glass lift. Owning a fancy boat is the ultimate lifestyle symbol for Dubai’s rich and famous.

Well, finally, our day came: after 10 years in Dubai, we signed up to a boat club that provides an alternative to boat ownership, where your membership grants you access to a fleet of yachts and boats moored in various marinas in Abu Dhabi and Dubai. Nothing as big as the superyachts that spell luxury, comfort and extravagance like no other – but plenty big enough for a family with kids who are just learning how to operate a boat.

img_1881DH completed his two-three days of training (which included a call to say he was just motoring past my office – overlooking the sea – towards the Palm, and if I looked out the window he’d wave.) There was some paperwork to complete – then before we knew it, we were off to sea … Just the four of us, with me totally outnumbered by boys on how fast we should go in choppier-than-expected waves that swelled and crested like there were huge, rippling muscles under the seabed. Yikes. (I’m still recovering from the whiplash!)

Our second voyage, this past weekend, found me in possession of much better-prepared sea-legs. But rather than go too far out this time, we motored round The Palm and anchored in the calm water just outside The Westin hotel. We were celebrating my birthday – And what a party zone it was!

The aquamarine sea, off which the dazzling-hot July sunshine bounced like a thousand gleaming sequins, was busy with jet-skis and boats blaring music. We watched with great hilarity as a motorboat crewed entirely by men anchored as close as it could to a yacht full of bikini-clad ladies, surely on a hen party. The girls were jumping in, splashing in the sun-warmed water, their laughter like soap bubbles. A head-turning sight.

There was so much going on – then a man arrived at the side of our boat on a jet ski. He cut the engine, reached over to give us a piece of card, smiled, and – after we’d peered curiously at the hand-out – roared off again.

My eyes rounded as I realised what the flyer was – it was a mobile dining menu. For a floating, drive-thru burger joint called Salt Bay DXB. The watery eatery will either dispatch a waiter on a jet ski to deliver food to your boat, or can accept orders directly from smaller watercraft.

“Only in Dubai!” DH and I laughed, as the kids started clamouring for burgers from the floating kitchen, and the soggy sandwiches in our cool box suddenly started to look rather lame.

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A food truck for yachts. The party piece is an in-built system that collects any trash found in the sea and disposes of it onshore. Credit: Conde Nast Traveller

PS: Thrilled to announce that my blog has been selected by Feedspot as one of the Top 10 Dubai Expat Blogs on the web! Please check out this link. Thank you Feedspot!

 

The Cure make the sun go down over London’s Hyde Park

Walking on stage in front of 50,000 fans, almost 40 years to the day since The Cure’s first-ever show in Crawley, East Sussex, lead singer Robert Smith jokingly cowered behind his fingers raised in a cross against the sun.

The band launched into Plainsong, the opening track from their 1989 top-selling album Disintegration, and it was immediately clear the evening was going to top what had already been an extraordinary day.

Just a few hours earlier, England’s football team had won 2-0 against Sweden, securing a place in the semi-final. I’m not a football fan in the slightest, until it comes to the World Cup – and then I support England fervently from the edge of my seat like everything depends on them winning. (I’ll be supporting the team Robert Smith-style on Wednesday, from behind my fingers.)

After the match had finished, I’d made it up to London in the sweltering heat by train, and found myself at Waterloo station immersed in the buzz of football fans in red, chanting “It’s Coming Home”, and Pride marchers decked out in glitter and rainbows. Nearer to Hyde Park, goths and rockers clad in black and leather made their way to London’s biggest open space. After living in the UAE for so long, mingling with such a high-spirited, diverse crowd, in such a celebratory mood with all stratas of society represented, was a breath of fresh air.

Performing at the end of a sizzling hot day of music at the British Summer Time festival, Robert Smith quipped, “I really can’t talk until the sun goes down. It’s taking all my energy not to dissolve.”

But the heat didn’t affect their energy for singing one bit: The Cure led us through two hours of nearly 25 songs, including favourites such as ‘Boys Don’t Cry’ and ‘Close to Me’. When the sun finally slipped from sight, leaving the city sky various shades of a deepening bluey purple, and things cooled marginally, Smith announced, “There, that song made the sun set.”

The cheering throngs didn’t let the heat get to them either: the crowd loved every moment, and between songs, sporadic chants of the summer’s impromptu anthem – that song again, ‘football’s coming home – echoed across the park.

Towards the end, Smith took a moment to reminisce, referring to the band’s first concert at The Rocket Club in Crawley on 9 July 1978. “If you’d asked me then what I thought I’d be doing in 40 years’ time, I couldn’t have told you it was this,” he said before playing a final clutch of fantastic songs to bring the day to a close.

And what a day it was.

Football fever hits the Middle East

With a record number of five Middle Eastern countries qualifying for the 21st Fifa World Cup tournament (Tunisia, Morocco, Saudi Arabia, Egypt and Iran), fans across the region are feeling the football mania.

Bars and clubs all over the city are showing the matches, and some huge fan zones have popped up, some of which can hold thousands of people. Two of the city’s top cinemas are also showing the action on the big screen, with popcorn and prizes to boot (excuse the pun!).

I, meanwhile, am still working out how I can watch it at home on the TV.

At work today, footie fans begged our IT guy to download a VPN so we could watch England play. Alas it wasn’t to be, so a chap sitting nearby kept us updated with the score as reported by Google. It played out something like this:

“It’s 2-0.”

Me: “Really? Wow!”

I work with mostly males, so I leaned forward towards my female friend opposite me and whispered: “Who are we playing?”

“Panama,” she replied confidently, before changing tack. “But don’t get too excited. It’ll all go wrong now.”

“Another goal! 3-0.”

Me: “No way?”

Before this news could be processed, it was 4-0 – then 5-0, and only half -term. “You’ve got to be kidding!” we cried. It was only the fifth time in World Cup history that a team had scored 5+ goals in the first half of a match. Was Russia fiddling with the news again?

I even started feeling sorry for Panama, who must have been extraordinarily bad.

The final score has to be recorded for prosperity, and what better image to feature than Dubai’s very own tallest score board…

Pret A Manger is finally here!

Ten years is a long time to wait for your favourite sandwich store to open. In that time, my children have grown from babies to pre-teens, I’ve seen friends come and go, we’ve moved house several times, I’ve gone back to work, and, if I look in the mirror, I see that a few more fine lines and sets of crow’s feet have made an appearance on my face. I certainly don’t remember inviting those bad-boys to the party.

Anyway … finally, the day arrived – Pret A Manger opened in Dubai, in a place I can visit without a boarding pass. You see, in 2016, the sandwich chain did a rather cruel thing – they opened a store at the airport’s Terminal 1, making their sandwiches, toasties, treats and organic coffees available only to travellers using that particular terminal (which happens to not be the Emirates terminal). I almost travelled on another budget airline deliberately just to grab a Pret at Terminal 1.

With that store unreachable, I instead made do with begging the pilot husband to bring me back sandwiches every time he passed through Heathrow. This was a good stop-gap arrangement, and my heart soared every time I opened the fridge and saw that my favourite tuna and cucumber baguette had arrived overnight.

Now. Wooohooo! All I have to do is go down the road, to Dubai Mall, where the newly opened Pret is located on the ground floor, with its famous star sign, chrome furniture and freshly prepared offerings – just like in London. Happy days!

See you there for lunch!

Eid: Will there or won’t there be school?

I have to add a little prologue to this blog: this year was the best Ramadan ever. There were enough eating places open during the day – hidden behind partitions and covered windows – to make the month a thoroughly palatable experience for those of us not fasting.

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Our class iftar: A highlight of the month

At work, we couldn’t eat or drink at our desks, but this was more than made up for by the shorter hours – two hours cut from the work day, even for non-Muslims. All over the city, there were some fabulous Iftars – the meal eaten after sunset, with dates first to break the fast, then lentil soup followed by exotic and flavoursome hot and cold mezze, from beetroot hummus to slow-roasted lamb in yogurt, biriyani and tabbouleh. We partook in several iftars and I can still conjure up the lavish, Middle Eastern tastes and smells as I write this post.

It also felt like the community came together in a way you don’t see so much the rest of the year – with Ramadan ‘sharing fridges’ that were filled and restocked by Dubai residents with juices, fruit, Laban and all sorts of other food items to serve the less fortunate workers and labourers; as well as various charity initiatives and donation drives. It really is the most wonderful time of the year.

710f3446-c543-4b37-9e7d-b6f9408073eeAs Ramadan drew to a close, the conversation at work inevitably turned to whether the office would be shut for Eid. It depends on the moon – so hard to plan (c’mon moon!).

School, too, is shut now for 4 days, Thursday to Sunday, although I should add this hasn’t gone down quite so well with all the mums. The kids had only just gone back after a week off for half-term, and the two-month-long summer break is coming at us like a freight train, kicking off in just three short weeks. Did the kids, who’d been on reduced, 8-15am-1.15pm Ramadan hours anyway, really have to be off school yet again?!!!!

It even seemed they might get Monday off too, the jammy buggers! The KHDA, Dubai’s education authority, tweeted the following:

You can sleep late on Thursday and Sunday

Because school’s closed – it’s the #Eid holiday!

Have a great time however you choose

But remember to keep checking the news

To find out whether there’s school on Monday

And, with the pilot husband gone for the duration of Eid, I might have let out a really loud groan … followed by a sigh of relief when, after three days of will-there-or-won’t there be school on Monday discussions with my kids, it was declared that school would, after all, restart that day.

Thank you moon.

Happy New Year!

… from the Burj Khalifa, in all its finery. Wishing everyone all good things in 2018…

Photos taken during a repeat of the spectacular, record-breaking New Year’s Eve light and laser show

Christmas calamities

I had two things in mind for December: we were NOT going to do the Elf on the Shelf, and – for the first time in a decade – I was going to put up a real Christmas tree.

December 1st draws closer, and the day before, Son2 starts talking excitedly about the Elf.

He knows it’s me. He even calls it the Elf/Mummy. But that doesn’t dampen his enthusiasm over the little fella’s arrival.

“Where do you think the Elf/Mummy will appear?” he asks, pinning me with an intent, knowing stare.

I can’t wriggle out of it. “I don’t know,” I say with a shrug. “Erm … You’ll find out in the morning.”

My certainty that this was the year I was NOT going to spend every night from 1-23 December moving a foot-tall plush doll around at midnight evaporated. (For those not in the festive loop, the Elf is sent by Santa Claus to check whether children are being “naughty or nice” – s/he flies off to the North Pole every night, and reappears every morning in a surprising new location in the house.)

elf

Why can’t I shelve this elf?

“It’s okay,” I tell myself at midnight that night. “One more year of Elf/Mummy will be fun … Never mind that what starts out as a good idea quickly turns into a chore, especially when the Elves on the Shelves of 2017 can’t just alight on the toaster or on top of the fridge; kids expect them to be floating round the living room in a miniature hot-air balloon, or ziplining into the Christmas tree.

I suppose a bit of me thinks it’s cute that Son2 still wants to believe in the Elf/Mummy, and so I decide to go for it … But where the hell is the damn Elf? Where did I store him? Yawn. It’s 12.15am by now.

I look everywhere. I search all the cupboards upstairs, I practically crawl under the beds. I have a vague recollection of Son2 opening a drawer in July and coming face to face with the Elf, his eyes widening into saucers, the penny dropping. An image of the Elf being carried around in the dog’s mouth shortly after its discovery also springs to mind.

After a fruitless, late-night search, I give up. The Elf is missing, awol. And in the morning, Son2 is crushed with disappointment.

From then on, he asks every night about the Elf’s whereabouts. “Will he come tonight Mummy?” And, of course, after nearly two weeks of this, I buckle and order a new Elf online – only for the courier to knock at the door and hand over a box that Son2 rips open.

“Mum, the Elf’s here,” he calls out gleefully. “Souq.com [the UAE’s wannabe-Amazon] has delivered …” His voice tails off as I rush in and swipe the box away from under his nose.

Not quite how I’d planned Elf/Mummy’s first appearance.

In the meantime, I’ve got my hands on a real Christmas tree. It’s an extravagantly tall, shapely fir and it fills the Christmas-tree space by the patio doors perfectly. It’s shedding needles already, but it emits the most wonderful sharp, dark green, pine scent, and has springy branches with ample hanging space for baubles, tinsel and lights. I’ve ingeniously used green string to tie the trunk to a curtain hook on the wall, so our kitten (Cookie) can’t topple its six-foot splendour.

But Cookie has other ideas, of course. She scales the foliage like a monkey, causing every needle to quiver and a hundred more to drop to the floor, where there’s a dry, brittle carpet of green collecting. In collusion with the dog, she’s learnt how to bat the shiny baubles off, and then chases each ornament around the house, until the dog eats them. With just two days to go before Christmas, the bottom third of the tree is now in a rather sorry, naked state.

Christmas calamity #3 came yesterday, when I really felt like something sweet and discovered the boys had eaten all the chocolates from the tree, but had left the wrappers dangling from the branches (they were Lindt chocolates, too, the little blighters!). Then, today, we got home from a trip to see Paddington 2 to find the dog had opened all the presents.

Merry Christmas everyone!

christmas 2017

Mixtape memory lane

The other day I found an old mixtape I’d made sometime last century. It was like discovering an artefact in a dig. A rectangular, plastic blast from the past. Fond memories sprung to my mind of recording off the radio during Simon Bates’ top 40 and copying albums.

A warm, fuzzy feeling washed over me.

I turned it over in my hands like a precious stone, and stared at it in wonder, remembering the excitement with which I used to compile these bulky tapes. I recalled the joy of swapping mixtapes with friends and listening to them on my Walkman, always carrying a pencil around to help me rewind.

“What’s THAT?” Son2’s voice snapped me back to the present. He looked baffled. “Is it a phone?”

Screen Shot 2017-11-28 at 13.50.36I laughed. “No, it’s a cassette tape. It plays music.”

He quickly lost interest, but then Son1’s curiosity was piqued. He picked up the rattly old tape, as confounded by it as his brother and equally oblivious to the joys of a new blank cassette waiting to be recorded onto. “What is it?”

“A music tape … I used to listen to these when I was a kid.”

“Really? How?” He looked for an on button, before holding it to his ear. “I can’t hear anything. Where do you plug the headphones in?”

“You don’t–”

“I know, you play it through the TV,” Son2 interrupted.

“No,” Son1 corrected. “They didn’t have TVs back then.”

Oh good Lord. It wasn’t that loooong ago.

On perms, mermaids and being over the hill

I met a heroine of mine the other day: the Little Mermaid!

I’ve always loved Hans Christian Andersen’s fairy tale about a young mermaid who is willing to give up her life in the sea and her identity as a mermaid to gain a human soul (and a prince, though the less said about him the better – he’s actually a bit of an idiot and treats her like a pet).

Re-reading the original fairy tale, and not the Disney adaptation (if you’re a fan of Ariel and her hair-forks and attempts to kiss people in boats, look away now), also reminded me that the 1837 fairy tale isn’t particularly suitable for reading to small kids enamoured by mermaids. It’s seriously gruesome: people dissolve, get stabbed, have oysters attached to them, and suffer all manner of other charming fates.

But I digress: my mum sent me a photo of when we visited Denmark’s famously winsome statue on a family holiday sometime in the 1980s. Once I’d got over laughing at my permed hair, I showed the photo (the bottom one) to Son1.

The Little Mermaid

“Who do you think that is?” I asked him.

Blank face.

“You’ve no idea?”

“Two boys?” ventured Son1, puzzled.

“One of them is a girl!” I exclaimed.

“Ah, right.” He peered at my phone again, using his fingers to enlarge the photo. “The one with the small head and big hair?”

“Yep – so who is it?”

He shrugged.

“It’s me – your mummy! When I was just a bit older than you.”

This raised a belly laugh – then, from left field, he came out with, “I didn’t think they had colour photos in those days.”