Qatar Archives - Circles in the SandCircles in the Sand

The Qatari capital is a dazzling city in the making

Posing in the bathtub

As I looked around at my fellow bloggers turned conference-goers, their beaming smiles made it hard to believe we’d only just met. We were gathered in a regally furnished, luxurious state suite in Doha’s Four Seasons hotel, dressed in personalised, fluffy white dressing gowns – gifted to us by the hotel.

The noise levels rose as photo opportunities were snapped up (two people, it turned out, could pose in the giant bathtub, all shiny marble with gold taps), and it was only a matter of time before everyone jumped on the huge double bed for a group picture.

Props all provided

It wasn’t just any old bed, you see. It was the four-poster that British footballer David Beckham had recently stayed in, when he visited Doha for the tennis. I could have moved into the suite there and then; it was enormous, and the impressive views made it feel like a swanky New York penthouse apartment, complete with a grand piano, butler and walk-in wardrobe.

I’d stayed in many faceless hotels on work trips in my life before kids, but the BloggingME workshop at the Four Seasons in Doha took hospitality to a new league altogether. They’d thought of everything, from the amazing canapés to the sundown reception on the terrace with champagne and chefs at live cooking stations. Doha, I discovered, knows how to conduct business, be it in a local coffeehouse or at a five-star hotel with bells on.

Building boom
There can’t be many places in the world that are changing as radically as Qatar. Doha, which began as a small fishing village, is now the capital of one of the fastest-growing countries on the planet.

Qatar’s economy used to be dependent on pearl fishing on the Arabian Gulf until the discovery it was on top of 15% of the world’s proven gas reserves. Credit: The Telegraph

A massive spending plan is part of the government’s National Vision 2030, which envisages a highly diversified economy with a focus on education and culture. What’s more, as Qatar gears up to host the 2022 Fifa football World Cup, Doha is investing more than $200bn in the development of essential infrastructure such as a metro to transport fans, stadiums to host matches and accommodation.

But while there are cranes and heavy equipment all over the city, visitors will find both history and modernity, often on the same city block, along with a generous smattering of authentic souqs and wide-open green spaces.

History meets modernity

Sparkling skyline
I was struck by the uniqueness of Doha’s buildings, and still have one particular view etched on my mind. While promenading the corniche, you can admire Doha’s sparkling skyline, rising up behind the old wooden dhows bobbing on the cobalt-blue bay. The corniche is without a doubt the highlight of the capital – together with the city’s geometric Museum of Islamic Art, which sits on the water’s edge like a gigantic broken Rubik Cube.

Museum of Islamic Art

Inside the free museum, there’s a fine collection of Islamic metalwork, ceramics, jewellery, woodwork, textiles and glass, spanning a period of 1,400 years and mostly from Turkey, Syria, Iran and Iraq. The building, with its symmetry and lineal architecture, is just as impressive, with stunning views over the water and downtown Doha across the bay. A popular photo is taken from the terrace on the left side of the building, where you’ll find water fountains and three arched open windows, which frame the city centre buildings beautifully.

Social heart
It’s then just a short walk to Souq Waqif, the social heart of Doha and a great place to explore, shop, have dinner or people-watch from one of the cafes. Tourists and locals mingle here, and the alleyways and architecture are wonderfully atmospheric. I found myself surrounded by colourful birds and rabbits (in dresses!), then angled myself in a different direction and soaked up the aromas coming from the numerous shops selling spices, perfumes and oud (an exotic incense made from agarwood).

Given a day in Doha, you can also fit in the cultural village of Katara, and by way of contrast, The Pearl, the glamorous address for some 12,000 residents as of January 2015. Once fully completed, The Pearl will create over 32 kilometres of new coastline. Love or hate it, it’s a distinctive sight, and otherwise known as Doha’s ‘Riviera Arabia’.

Of course, you’ll also want to take the obligatory Doha selfie on a mosque visit – my last photo I’ll leave you with, just as a thumbnail!

There was a sombre mood among Dubai mums today. A sense of loss. As though the world had tipped on its axis.

Shockwaves were ricocheting through the Middle East as we learnt more about the Villaggio tragedy in the Qatari capital of Doha, in which 13 toddlers, four teachers and two brave firefighters lost their lives as a popular shopping centre was engulfed in flames.

We might not have been directly affected, but with the three degrees of separation that is expat life, nearly everyone in Dubai has connections with Doha. Most of us have searched for childcare in a country that is not our own and every Dubai mum knows exactly what it’s like to rely on malls during the hot months.

What is unimaginable is the pain that the families must be going through. When the little ones were dropped at the mall’s Gympanzee nursery, and the teachers went to work that morning, the idea that a couple of hours later the daycare centre would be ablaze – with firemen unable to access it because the staircase had collapsed – was unthinkable.

The firefighters reportedly had to break through the roof to get to the trapped children, but it was too late. They died from asphyxiation. One family, from New Zealand, lost their triplets, aged just two.

Here in Dubai, we also watched the tragedy unfolding on social media sites, hours before the news was officially reported. On Twitter, we witnessed the panic spreading among Doha mums who didn’t know if their children were safe. On Facebook, there were photos. It was indescribably awful. We prayed it was all rumours and scaremongering. It wasn’t. Nearly 12 hours after the fire broke out, the devastating news was finally released to the world’s media.

And today, as stories of a chaotic evacuation, defunct sprinklers, floor plans that didn’t have emergency exits correctly marked and inaudible fire alarms emerge, we’re asking our children’s nurseries and schools about their evacuation plans and fire drills.

Words simply aren’t enough. My thoughts are with all the families who lost loved ones in this tragedy – and with Doha’s expat mums, a small community, who are still in shock.